>>>We litter box train all of our puppies<<<
Think of what parents do when they find out they're expecting a baby :-)
Baby showers, baby room, formula fills the pantry, baby bottles and diapers are purchased in huge quantities, toys and pacifiers are picked out, the baby's doctor is selected, etc. You need to make the same preparations for the puppy, and think about the supplies you will need, the car ride home and the new puppy's activities, feeding, and health care check-up. Please puppy prove your home, just like you would for a baby/toddler.
Puppy's first few days & nights guidelines
We feed TLC ALL STAGE FOOD .
Please feed your puppy as directed on bag by weight 2x a day
feed puppy @6-8 AM and 4-6 PM if you control intake you will control output.
give food & water only in crate with door open, this is when you start crate training.
Do not change TLC dog food for the first few month of puppy’s life.
Take puppy out to potty every 2 hrs during the day add 15min. as you see fit.
last potty outing around 11;30PM then 2:30AM and 5:30AM, however do not wake up puppy.
Please never wake up a sleeping puppy.
last water around 9PM, it takes time to train a puppy
Sleep: puppies need 18-20 hrs of sleep a day
First Night: let the puppy sleep with you to get used to your smell, camp out on the couch with the crate near by again only feed and give water in crate with door open. Any treats or toy should only be given in crate with door open at this time. Then slowly start to close door to the crate for like 10 minutes at the time. Gradually add more time. The Baxter program or some videos on you tube about crate training will help you greatly. Introduce puppy to 1 room at the time, once he/she masters 1 room add the next .
Nipping /biting hands/crate training /&more : please watch some you tube videos, it may take different methods for different pups, each puppy is unique.
We only produce VERY LIMITED # of puppies a year
When you come to pick up:
> we welcome you to come pick up in person
we have a designated area for pickup / grooming area
> We do not allow people into our home.
> limit 2 adults please no children under 10 years of age
> we also offer delivery and can meet you in some cases ( for a fee $ )
> some of our dogs are onsite unless they are in guardian homes
First groom : from day 1 you get your puppy please do the following: touch bottom of paws daily, use electric toothbrush for noise around head and body, comb daily, bath only once a month more is not good for the skin of puppy. Take puppy to his/hers first professional groom no later then 12 weeks of age for a puppy cut. DO NOT WAIT 6 MONTH for the first groom!
is going to need a room or at least a place he/she can call his own, and crate will fit this bill. You are better off getting one that is big enough for him/her to use as an adult. The pup will need food and water bowls, toys to chew on and play with, a (collar) harness and leash, a bag of TLC ALL STAGE Dry Food and plenty of newspapers or training pads if you are going to house train inside.
The car ride home:
The big day arrives & it is off to pick up the new puppy. Coming home will start out with a car ride. Try to keep this from being an overly stressful experience for the pup. The main problem dogs have with car rides usually is not what we humans refer to as motion sickness, but simple anxiety about the vibrations, sounds to a lesser degree, the movement. Many dogs that have developed problems with car rides get nervous or even nauseous before the engine is even started. It is important that this first trip not be a bad experience that regresses into a repetitious behavioral pattern. Before you leave us we will try to get the puppy to use the bathroom so there are no surprises. On this first trip home, we break a cardinal rule about traveling with pets. We do not put them in a crate for traveling. Remember, they are small and easy to hold. Rather, we have someone other than the driver hold the puppy in a blanket or towel and talk or in some way try to distract him from the ride. If you have a long way to go and need to stop for the puppy to relieve himself, do not use a highway rest stop. At his young age, the puppy has very little, if any, protection from common dog diseases, and these areas can easily be contaminated with the organisms causing these conditions.
Day 1 in new home:
Leaving her mom & litter mates will probably bring about some anxiety/stress. However, this can be greatly diminished if you plan your schedules so that you will be home with the puppy the first 3 to 4 days. Some people suggest leaving the puppy alone and give him/her time to them self to adjust to the new surroundings. We disagree. In our homes, we plan for this introductory period by keeping the puppy involved with plenty of attention from children and other family members. When we are not with the puppy, she is sleeping. You will be amazed how time spent in this manner will speed up the housebreaking process. If the children are young or are not familiar with how to handle puppies, you should spend some time with them during these first few days explaining common sense rules on how to play with the puppy.
Feeding the puppy:
What, when, and how to feed puppies becomes a major issue on the first day. Many new owners worry that without his mother’s milk, their pup is going to have a hard time adjusting to his new home. It is a good idea to continue feeding the same type and brand of food for at least a few days. Most people are soon surprised how well puppies make it through this transition because they do not understand how far along dogs are in their development at 7 weeks of age.
Most puppies start eating dog food at 21/28 days of age, puppies are ready to start on something in addition to Mom’s milk. We take dry puppy food, soak it in warm water for thirty minutes and then give it to the litter when they are 21-28 days old. This takes a huge burden off the mother, especially
when puppies teeth are coming in. @ 7 week old puppy can eat dry puppy food , no problem.
Our puppies are raised in a non-kennel environment where they are allowed to experience the world as they grow. They are taken out for little romps and walks on our property. They walk over the ground where the rabbits and numerous other animals around our house. Our puppies enjoy learning about life and living in the real world, which means they are exposed to real world things, like giardia and coccidia. We do everything we can to prevent this but we will not restrict our puppies to a kennel life. Puppies can be infected with giardia by simple things such as walking over dirt and licking their paws, drinking water from a puddle, licking the grass where a wild bird pooped, etc..
Vet health check up:
One of the first things you need to do is get the puppy to your veterinarian for an initial puppy examination. The vet will do a well check, which sometimes includes doing a fecal test. Please be aware that only the expensive snap test is a conclusive one, so any other test is not 100% reliable. There can be false positives or negatives. If they do run the snap test and it shows giardia, they will likely want to treat with metronidazole or fenbendazole even if your puppy is not symptomatic. If coccidia shows up in a fecal test, that is common. Research is showing that every dog harbors this in their system.
crates/pens for starters and easy clean up if puppy is left alone for a few hrs/night at a young age:
Pet Insurance please call to sign up for
healthy paws = 1-844-260-7911 www.healthypawspetinsurance.com/pethealth/fido/
Petplan = 1-866-467-3875 30 day free trail recommened
PetsBest = 1-877-738-7237
I highly recommend: Cesar Millan
Temperament: Goldendoodles are an intelligent and obedient family companion. They are everybody's friend and devoted to their family. They are friendly towards children, other dogs and pets, and easy with strangers. They are social dogs, happiest when with people. Goldendoodles are likely to get into mischief and develop behavior problems if they spend most of their lives alone. Their intelligence, eagerness to please, and love of learning make them very easy to train. They are small, medium-to large sized family dogs with easy dispositions.
For daily brushing I recommend the Chris Christensen 27mm T-brush. Differences Between Boys & Girls? I am often asked, what's the difference between the little boy and the little girl puppies. The general answer is that each puppy has it's own individual personality and they should be evaluated and matched to families according to their own temperament. Boys are typically a bit more laid back or lazy and girls are a bit more nosy (typical women). I have observed this over the years with many puppies. They are all very loving and sweet , the Goldendoodle breed is a very friendly people loving dog, however. Our goal is match each family with the puppy that is the most suitable. I personally believe that spaying & neutering a puppy as early as possible. 3-6months old , desexes them and they do not tend to show the male/female tendencies. I have never had a family contact me about a neutered male that was marking the house.
Weight Expectancy? Typical Growth Chart: 2 x puppy's weight at 16 weeks
Living Conditions & Exercise? Goldendoodles require a moderate amount of exercise and their coats are generally low maintenance. They can live in the city or on a farm. They are social dogs and they are happiest when they are with people.
Grooming? As a hybrid cross, Goldendoodles will inherit fur that looks retriever-like, or poodle-like, but usually something in-between. Unclipped Goldendoodles will have hair about 4-7 inches long, shorter on the face and longer on the body, tail and legs. From my observation, they grow about one inch a month. They require combing every few weeks. Depending on how often the dog is groomed, clipped Goldendoodles are groomed several times a year.
Life Expectancy ? With good care and nutrition, about 10-15 years.
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE A CRATE BY YOUR BED AT NIGHT THE PUPPY SHOULD SLEEP BESIDE YOUR BED IN HIS/HER CRATE
Crate training is not cruel nor should it be punishment for Puppy. A crate the proper size for Puppy is: a safe place to be while sleeping; safety when you are not around to watch him; a place to eat uninterrupted; a place to go to get away from it all. Dogs are den animals and many like a place they can curl up in and feel secure.
large breed dogs can get this , we can not warrant for pano.
Why Use a Crate?
You can leave Puppy or Doggy home alone with peace of mind. He is comfortable and not forming bad or destructive habits. He also is not going to be confused by your reactions to bad behavior when you return. Remember, dogs do not have the reasoning humans do. When we return and see the garbage rooted through and then punish Puppy, chances are he will not realize what you are punishing him for. He may think you are punishing him for something completely different.
Crates also make house training easier.
Puppies and dogs generally will not soil their sleeping and eating area. Used with a consistent schedule, a crate can be your best ally with house training. Crates offer safety when traveling.
A dog in a crate is far less likely to be injured in an accident. A crate keeps your dog from
bouncing around, getting on your lap, blocking your view or even getting under the driver's feet!
If crating while driving is not possible, at least train Puppy to lie quietly in the back seat or use a doggy seat belt available at many pet supply places.
What a Crate is Not!
A crate is not a substitute for human companionship. Use of a crate should be limited to no more than eight hours, less for a younger animal. If your work schedule is longer than that, consider getting a dog walker to exercise Puppy or Doggy for you midday. There are also Dog Day Care centers cropping up! Crates are not to be used for punishment. The crate must be viewed by Puppy as a afe place to be. Do not allow your children to torment Puppy while crated. Make sure he has fresh water, a sturdy bed and safe toys (rotate toys daily so he always has different ones and a different combination).How to Measure a Crate
If buying for an adult dog, get a crate big enough that he can fit in from tip of nose to base of tail (a few inches longer in each direction). He should be able to stand up, sit, turn and lie down on his side stretched out comfortably. If buying for a puppy, get one that will fit him as an adult. Some manufacturers even make crate dividers so you can expand the crate area as Puppy grows. If in doubt of size, I opt for the next size up. A crate slightly too large is better than one too small!
Where to Put the Crate
Put the crate in a people area such as family room, kitchen or bedroom. You do not want your dog to feel banished when crated so the cellar or garage is no good.
Where to Get a Crate
Many pet supply and feed stores carry crates or you can mail order them. Do not be put off by the cost - crates are far less expensive than replacing a shredded couch or even carpet cleaning by a professional company. Some crates are quite reasonably priced. You can even find them at yard sales!!! (Make certain all the hardware is there and the door latches correctly and securely).
Introducing the Crate
First remove your dog's collar so he will not get caught. It happens rarely, by why take the risk. NEVER crate a dog with a choke collar on. Choke collars should NEVER be used for everyday use - they are for training and walks only, then should be removed. The same for a pinch collar! Set up the crate in the place you wish to keep it. Encourage your dog or puppy to enter the crate by enticing him with bits of food. Use something he cannot resist like cooked chicken or hot dog slices. Praise as he enters.
Let him walk in and out a few times. Now start to encourage him to lie down quietly and relax. Give him a couple safe toys and close the door. Sit with him and talk softly. Let him out. Now start to leave for a short time. Even if he cries and whines, do not weaken. He should adjust to the crate eventually. Just keep making it a positive experience.
How Long to Use the Crate
Some dogs can never be trusted with run of the house unattended. Some dogs are fine. If you think your dog is able to behave un-crated, begin testing by leaving his loose for five minutes while you walk outside. If that works, increase to ten, fifteen and so on. Should he begin to misbehave, continue using the crate. It is safer for Doggy and saner for you!
Crates as a House Training Aid
Always have a feeding and potty schedule for your puppy or adult dog. This makes house training much easier. If you are not able to be with Puppy, put him in the crate. Take him out on lead and encourage him to go potty. Once he does, praise lavishly and bring back inside. Should he not go, put him back in the crate and try again in a little bit. Dogs do not like to soil their beds as a rule.
Should he soil the crate, take him out while someone cleans the crate. Do not punish for eliminating in the house unless you catch him in the act. DO NOT rub his nose in it or hit him. Just give a loud, firm, growly "AAAAAH! NO!!!" and get him out immediately. Try to get him to potty outside and then praise lavishly when he goes.
Remember, the younger the Puppy, the smaller the bladder capacity. It is unreasonable to ask a young puppy to hold an eight-hour day. Consider a dog walker for a midday potty break. Also, sometimes older dogs have bladder control issues. Sudden house soiling in a dog without problems could be a sign of an underlying problem such as a bladder infection. Unaltered or spayed dogs are also more apt to soil in the house. Males if not neutered have a greater chance of wanting
to mark their territory and may do so inside. I also know females who mark.
Do not paper train or use those pads designed for puppy to eliminate on. This only teaches Puppy it is OK to potty in the house.
Paper training could actually delay house training.
treats for my dogs ...only small amounts please:
cheese, peanut butter, carrots
I also treat my dogs every time. I put them in crate.
Pork in itself is as harmless to dogs as chicken, beef or any other meat. However, there is a slight risk of your dog being infected with trichinosis by eating pork. Trichinosis, also known as trichinellosis, is a worldwide, food borne disease caused by an intestinal roundworm, uncommon in the United States. Both humans and pets who eat raw or undercooked meat of infected animals can develop the disease. Undercooked or raw meat of infected animals contains the roundworm. The disease can lead to muscle soreness and pain together with swelling of the upper eyelids in mild cases but can lead to more severe symptoms. If you would like to feed pork but want to take all necessary precautions, it is recommended that the pork be frozen for 3 weeks to kill the parasite.
The most important precaution is to make sure that all fresh pork and pork products are properly cooked. Other raw and undercooked meat should also be avoided, especially meat from wild animals.
It is an excellent idea to supplement your dog's diet with fresh vegetables, and especially in substitution for a chew. Many dogs like carrots, and there is nothing harmful about providing the odd raw carrot. Their diet, as in humans, should consist of a lot of different things in moderation. Your dog can eat most any vegetables that humans eat, provided that they are in moderation. A little left over vegetables from the family meal the night before are an excellent addition to
your dog's meal.
There are lots of human food items that are not good for dogs. Most would require to be fed in large quantities to have an adverse effect. In most cases the worst symptoms would be temporary diarrhea or muscle spasms, but some (such as chocolate) can have more serious consequences.
Foods known to be toxic to dogs include chocolate, onion, garlic, Macadamia nuts, green parts of tomato plants, potato peelings, raisins, grapes, rhubarbleaves,yeastdough,hops,coffeegrounds/beans, broccoli and pips or stones from many household fruits.
Is your dog food packed with nutrition for good health so your pet lives a healthier and longer life? Is your dog howing signs of premature aging?
Although you may think all pet food manufacturers have your pet’s best interests in mind, this is not always the case. Current pet food regulations allow manufacturers to use ingredients that you would never knowingly give to your pet. In fact, you may be shocked to learn what some brands of pet food really contain. For example: the use of by-products (feet, bones and intestines, etc.), chemical preservatives (BHA and BHT) and grains that are often difficult to digest (corn, wheat, gluten and soy), which are often used as a protein source instead of meat
Don’t see your brand of pet food? Here’s how to compare your brand
1. Get your bag of food. Look for the Ingredient Statement on the label.
Read the first 5 ingredients. They play a significant role in the nutritional make-up of a food.What are the protein sources?
We believe the primary source should come from quality animalprotein, not vegetable protein or grain. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5
ingredients may have more vegetable protein than animal protein.
What about grains? Two or more grains listed in the first 5 ingredients means your food may have more vegetable protein than animal protein. Grains such as soy, corn, corn gluten and wheat gluten can be difficult to digest, which means less nutrition and more clean up.
Are there by-products? Some manufacturers consider by-products inferior sources of protein and, depending on the ource, they can be difficult to digest.
What are the fat sources? Some fats are better than others. We believe the primary fat source in dogfood should be animal based because animal fats contain a profile of fatty acids that are easily metabolized and thus are generally more available to the body.
Does your food contain other health-promoting ingredients, such as: Vegetables, Beet fiber,Antioxidants, Proteinated Minerals, Bacteria cultures.
Your dog deserves the very best food. Compare dog food to see how your dog food measures up?
Look for the things that SHOULD NOT be in a healthy dog food
Poor Protein Sources-Soybean Meal, Wheat, Corn Glutens, Corn Meal, Whole Corn, Crushed Corn and Ground Corn are commonly used for their protein content in many pet foods. These ingredients are generally poor sources of protein vs. meat.
Chemical Preservatives- BHA, BHT and ethoxyquin are found in many pet foods. Scientific studies have proven that these chemicals can be harmful. In fact, they have been shown to promote liver disease and other medical problems.Food Coloring- Food colorings are still commonly used in pet foods today despite the fact that they are not necessary and some have been linked to medical problems.
BY-Products- By-products can vary ... they can consist of the internal parts of animals such as necks, heads, undeveloped eggs, feet, intestines, lungs, spleen and liver. Although by-products are used by many manufacturers, are these ingredients you would knowingly feed your pet?
What the Labels do not Reveal- Condemned parts and animals rejected for human consumption can be rerouted into commercial pet foods. These condemned parts are referred to as the 4 D's: dead, dying, diseased or decayed. We believe this is one of the most despicable practices in
the pet food manufacturing industry.
Some manufacturers have a lower standard regarding the quality of ingredients they use to make pet food. A recent example of this practice is the discovery of Pentobarbital in major pet foods, including supermarket brands. Pentobarbital is a chemical used to euthanize animals. Many holistic veterinarians feel that daily ingestion of pentobarbital can be harmful.
Many manufacturers cut costs by using the cheapest ingredients available at the time a food is made. Since costs rise and fall, some manufacturers will vary ingredients from
batch to batch .. resulting in changed nutrient values for each batch and possible digestive illness.
Some manufacturers have lower standards regarding the freshness of ingredients they use to make pet food. You can not determine the freshness of ingredients by reading a label; you must trust the pet food manufacturer.
Parasites In Puppies
The most common internal parasites for puppies are roundworms, hookworms, coccidia, and tapeworms.
Roundworms look like spagetti and can cause a puppy to have a “pot belly.” Most puppies have roundworms at some point. Roundworm eggs can be passed from mothers to babies through nursing. The life cycle of roundworms is two weeks. Roundworm eggs are larger than other parasite eggs, and are quite distinctive. Because of this, they
are easy to detect in a “floatation” fecal check.
Hookworms are much smaller than roundworms, and are not usually seen, but they’re more dangerous than roundworms. The hookworm attaches to the intestinal lining and can cause internal bleeding as it moves from place to place. They can also migrate into the lungs. A puppy infested with hookworms will appear thin, and have a dry,
unhealthy looking coat. Puppies can be born with hookworms, and can die within 10 days if they and their mother are not properly treated.
Coccidia is not a worm. It is a microscopic internal parasite (protozoan) common in warm, humid climates. Most southern breeders have a problem with it because of the heat, humidity, and mild winters – nothing dies. Coccidia can be stress-related. A puppy may have a negative fecal check result from a vet, appear perfectly fine, but show
evidence of coccidia as soon as he goes to a new home. Albon, the prescription medication for coccidia, doesn’t actually kill it. It washes the puppy’s digestive tract, taking the coccidia with it. From what I’ve read, it’s the puppy’s own immune system that eventually will kill any remaining coccidia. A young puppy’s immune system is not fully developed, so it takes time for the puppy and it’s immune system to mature. My vet says most adult dogs have coccidia, but they also have the antibodies to fight and control it. A puppy with coccidia that is not well cared for and not treated with Albon will eventually develop watery diarrhea and can dehydrate. This is when coccidia can
become a serious condition – the coccidia replicates unchecked, and the puppy can become very ill.
Tapeworms come from fleas. A young flea will eat tape worm eggs, and puppies get tape worms if they swallow a flea. The tapeworm is segmented and flat, so what you will see are small, flat, cream colored pieces less than a half inch long. The most common place to see them is around a dog or cat’s behind. These moving pieces contain tapeworm eggs. When they’re dry, they look similar to uncooked rice. Tapeworms can cause a loose stool.
Giardia is a parasite is less common, and more difficult to diagnose. It would probably not be detected by a vet using the normal “floatation” method of fecal screening. It causes periodic diarrhea and loss of appetite; a puppy with severe giardia is likely to be thin. There is a vaccine for giardia manufactured by Fort Dodge.The prescription medications (from your vet).
Strongid T (pyrantel pamoate) – For treating Hook and Roundworms. It is a yellow liquid given once, and then 2 weeks later. In a stubborn case, treat 3-5 days in a row, and then repeat the same in 2 weeks. If you have a litter of puppies, the first worming should be at 2 weeks of age, repeated every two weeks until 8 weeks of age. The mother should be treated at the same time.
Panacur (10% Fenbendazole) –For treating Hook and Roundworms. It is a white liquid that tastes terrible. Dose 1cc per 5 pounds for 3 consecutive days, and repeat process in 2 weeks. The benefit of Panacur is that it usually works in a situation where Strongid T has been ineffectual. It also comes in granular form, to be mixed with food.
Drontel is another medication prescribed for hookworms. It comes in pill form, and is also used to treat tapeworms.
Droncit, Drontel, or Centex- For treating Tapeworms. It is a serrated tablet given once, repeat if tapeworms reappear.
Albon –Treatment of Coccidia. It is a dark yellow liquid given for 10-21 days. Double dose the first day of treatment. Also comes in pill form.
Metronidazole -For treatment for Giardia. It is most common in pill form but can be gotten in liquid form by special order. Give once daily by weight for 10 days, twice daily (divided dose) in severe cases. Panacur has actually been found to be more effective in treating giardia.Even a healthy appearing puppy can have some form of parasite. When you get a new puppy, it’s always a good idea to have a fecal exam done by your vet, even if the puppy just had one by the my vet. When they puppies are shown and sold they have had a clear check from the vet, but as I mentioned, going to a new home can be stressful. That’s when parasites are more evident, and easier for a vet to detect.Don’t forget about heartworm preventative for your new puppy! This can only be gotten from a vet, so you should discuss the different options with him or her.
WHAT IS A BREEDER?
A Breeder (with a capital B) is one who thirsts for knowledge and never really knows it all, one who wrestles with decisions of conscience, convenience, and commitment.
A Breeder is one who sacrifices personal interests, finances, time, friendships, fancy furniture, and deep pile carpeting! She gives up the dreams of a long, luxurious cruise in favor of turning that all-important Show into this years 'vacation'. The Breeder goes without sleep (but never without coffee!) in hours spent planning a breeding or watching anxiously over the birth process, and afterwards, over every little sneeze, wiggle or cry. The Breeder skips dinner parties because that litter is due or the babies have to be fed at eight. She disregards birth fluids and puts mouth to mouth to save a gasping newborn, literally blowing life into a tiny, helpless creature that may be the culmination of a lifetime of dreams.
A Breeder's lap is a marvelous place where generations of proud and noble champions once snoozed. A Breeder's hands are strong and firm and often soiled, but ever so gentle and sensitive to the thrusts of a puppy's wet nose. A Breeder's back and knees are usually arthritic from stooping, bending, and sitting in the birthing box, but are strong enough to enable the Breeder to show the next choice pup to a Championship. A Breeder's shoulders are stooped and often heaped with abuse from competitors, but they're wide enough to support the weight of a thousand defeats and frustrations. A Breeder's arms are always able to wield a mop, support an armful of puppies, or lend a helping hand to a newcomer. A Breeder's ears are wondrous things, sometimes red (from being talked about) or strangely shaped (from being pressed against a phone receiver), often deaf to criticism, yet always fine-tuned to the whimper of a sick puppy. A Breeder's eyes are blurred from pedigree research and sometimes blind to her own dog's faults, but they are ever so keen to the competitions faults and are always searching for the perfect specimen.
A Breeder's brain is foggy on faces, but it can recall pedigrees faster than an IBM computer. It's so full of knowledge that sometimes it blows a fuse: it catalogues thousands of good boning, fine ears, and perfect heads... and buries in the soul the failures and the ones that didn't turn out. The Breeders heart is often broken, but it beats strongly with hope everlasting... and it's always in the right place! Oh, yes, there are Breeders, and then, there are BREEDERS!